Marni gets happy again at Milan Fashion Week

(Marni spring/summer 2015 collection Photo: mermaid wedding dresses) 

It's always encouraging to see a label with the courage of its convictions. Three seasons ago when Marni decided to take a new path, the critics weren't so sure. It wasn't that they'd jettisoned the road map completely - Marni's customer is still a woman who likes to think she's operating outside the box. But her rich-lady-artist schtick was replaced by more of a fashion student one, circa late 80s/early 90s. Specifically a fashion student who revered Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons.
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She's more Japan-centric than ever, but now she has refined and embellished those elongated ruffled skirts and draped tops, with brocade patchworks and floral detonations, giving them a distinctive Marni joie-de-vivre.

It began quietly enough, with elongated silhouettes, slightly raised waists and shin grazing hems cut from taupe linens and cream calicos reminiscent of toiles - not a bad metaphor for a collection that will need some tweaking before it works for most women.

That tweaking began on the catwalk. Sure some of those endless sleeves and the fin constructions on the skirts, with their sprays of pleated cotton, will be tricky to wear, but there was so much here to intrigue and delight the fashion customer.

For one thing, the toile-a-likes reappeared later in sweeps of Kelly green and cerulean blue or leaf-print silks and lemon brocades. For another, the Marni trouser is wider, more dramatic than before, with a paper-bag waistband. Just add a t-shirt and a pair of Marni's trainer-sandals and that's next summer's uniform sorted.

It wasn't only the shoes that will be editorial and commercial cat-nip. All the accessories were as strong as we've seen anywhere: woven and silk drawstrings and flower print totes ready-made for Instagram, and necklaces recast in sculptural metals and trimmed with silk flowers.

If you're wondering about all the flowers: Marni also launched its own (temporary) flower market in Milan today. There can't be many nicer ways to celebrate a 20th birthday. Flowers are never out of date, especially when they're run through a computer and magnified.

The suit got a work-out too: reborn as a twisty boat-neck tunic, tied at the waist with twine, and worn withy drape-y tunic tops that looked anything but corporate. The best was an evening tunic and skirt composed of a patchwork of silver studs, discs and black flowers - mixed with calico. Of course.

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